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"A UNIQUE COLLECTION OF ISLANDS"-

----"There is not another collection of islands of this significance within the continental boundaries of the United States. I think it tremendously important that this collection of islands be preserved." - Senator Gaylord Nelson.-

----The Apostle Islands are set in western Lake Superior, in far northwestern Wisconsin, just off the Bayfield Peninsula. The archipelago is spread over about 600 square miles of Lake Superior. They are among the wildest lands bordering the Great Lakes. The Gaylord Nelson Wilderness Area was declared in 2004 to preserve the solitude and wildness of about 80% of the National Seashore.

----An archipelago is an island chain, linking land and water over a considerable distance. In 1970, 20 of the Apostle Islands and a 12-mile section of mainland Wisconsin, were set aside as a National Lakeshore under the National Park Service, with their headquarters in Bayfield, Wisconsin. And watch out for the Ranger in Dory Bay - she's a tough dude!

WILDLIFE

--------Wildlife is prolific with over 200 bird species recorded in the islands. Spring and fall thousands of migrants rest on the islands. Water birds are found along shores and coves and the calls of loons echo in the evening.

----Some animals swim between the islands or cross on the winter ice. While we were in the islands, one island was closed due to bear activity and several other campsites were restricted due to bears. The concentration of black bears on some islands is among the densest anywhere in the wilds. There are only a few species of nonpoisonous snakes on the islands, and they are rarely seen. Deer numbers peaked in the early 1940's and 50's but liberal hunting quotas have greatly reduced their numbers. You might see a deer or otter, and beaver are common.

----The islands are at the continental northwestern limits of the hemlock-white pine-northern hardwood forest, and they also contain fragments of boreal forest, perhaps relict from the Ice Age. Logging, fires, and overbrowsing by deer have severely modified the natural forest. Unbroken mature second growth forest covers most of the Lakeshore.

----A study of the flora of the islands was completed in 1992. A catalog of 810 species of plants is listed. Such diversity in a relatively small area, and some have beautiful blossoms.!

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EXPLOITATION OF RESOURCES

----The French missionaries were the first European explorers in the 1600's. They didn't count all the islands; hence named them after the twelve Apostles. Henry Schoolcraft in the late 1700's surveyed the islands for minerals. He named them Confederation Islands after the new Confederation of American states. Individual islands were named for the original colonies, but these names were not accepted by the local people. Settlement by Europeans was mostly to exploit the resources of the islands.

Fur

----Trappers and traders in fur explored the region, with a few settling in the islands.

Echoes from the Voyageurs

Quarries

----The Great Chicago Fire of 1871 had a heavy impact on the Apostle Islands. Suddenly, the demand for building material made from rock increased. The sandstone of the islands was perfect. Quarries opened on three of the islands and 'brownstone' was used in major buildings in Milwaukee, Chicago, Detroit, Toledo, Cincinnati, St. Paul, Kansas City, and Omaha. Hundreds of workers lived in hotels on some of the islands. The quarries, adjacent to water transportation, remained active until around 1900 when architectural styles changed.

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Brownstone Buildings in Washburn, WI

Dentist's Office, Historic Iron Foundry, and Former Bank (Now Washburn Historical Museum)

----Look closely at the details in the rock facing of the brownstone buildings. Every rock is a story book - imagine the tales that this quartz pebble could tell - then read our story in Apostle Islands Rift.

Apostle Islands Rift.

Forestry

----Logging removed the old growth forests from all the islands from 1850 to 1970. Again the water transportation routes facilitated the distribution of logs and wood products. First the white pines were exploited, then the hemlocks, yellow birch, and sugar maples. Today the forests on the islands are all 'second growth.' This new growth is very thick on some of the islands making walking difficult but a fine home for squirrels, deer, and rabbits.

Fishing

----For centuries, the Ojibwe fished for lake trout, whitefish, lake herring, and sturgeon. Commercial fishing began in the 1830's and grew steadily until it declined after the 1890's. Fishing recovered for a brief time and declined again in the 1950's due to overfishing, pollution, habitat destruction, and nonnative invasive species.

--

----Management has helped fish populations rebound today to supply commercial and sport fishing.

And a Few Gulls

----Sand Island was home to the fishing village of Shaw in the years 1911 to 1928- a town with a post office, school, roads, and even a telephone line connecting the homes and businesses. But, with the decline of fishing, the village slowly disappeared.

----The Hokenson fishing dock, adjacent to the visitor center in Little Sand Bay, has been restored as a museum and is a fascinating look into the 1930's and '40's when fishing was a major industry in the islands.

------------------------The Boys-----------------------------------------------------------The Twine Shed----------------------------------------------The Herring Shed

--The Dock

Farming

----Small farms developed in some of the logged-over areas of the islands, but most were not economically successful except on a few of the larger islands.

RECREATION

Tall Tales

----One of the great pleasures of camping is sitting around the evening campfire and swapping stories (real or legendary) of the past. One tale tells of the naming of Hermit Island. During those early days of European settlement - far from local authorities and the law - an individual man would sometimes proclaim himself "king" of an island. "King" John Bell ruled Madeline Island in the 1840's. A cooper named Wilson challenged his right of authority. This resulted in a day-long fistfight between the two men. Wilson lost and was banished to a lonely island, named for him, Hermit Island. Years earlier, a French paymaster, coming from the east with $8,000 in military pay (in silver and gold) stayed on Wilson's island for a night. The payroll was stolen and reportedly buried. It has never been found, although treasure hunters have scoured the island.

----Wilson lived there alone. In the early 1850's a local Indian Agent and his wife came to visit Wilson and found him dead in his bed. His cabin had been ransacked leading to stories of foul play - perhaps a crime committed by some who believed Wilson had discovered the treasure.

----Some of the best tales are those of the lightkeepers who maintained the lighthouses on the islands. One keeper (on Michigan Island) planted 16,000 apple trees in his spare time (only a few remain today). National Park Service volunteers man the lighthouses today to maintain the structures - they are a source of great stories passed down by former keepers and their families.

----Every good campfire tale, on a shore, must have a tale of pirates. Naturally, the pirate band here called themselves the Twelve Apostles. In the early 1800's this nefarious band hid in the ravines of Oak Island. They would descend on passing boats and kill and rob the passengers and crew of valuables. But their escapades were brief. They were spotted, captured and disposed of by the local constables, who recognized the gang as the Twelve Apostles.

----Lake Superior has been the location of many shipwrecks, and tales of grounding and breaking up in storms fill the history books of the region.
Relicts from the wrecks are found in visitor centers and museums of the area.

Kayaking

----We saw many sea kayaks among the islands. Often the occupants are in wet or dry suits for protection from the cold water. Some escorted groups leave Little Sand Bay almost every day to visit the sea caves and camp on the islands. The islands are favorites for anyone interested in kayaking, but care must be taken if entering the caves. Several kayakers had to be rescued by the Park Service the day after we visited some caves. They had kayaked into caves and became trapped by breaking waves.

Excursion Boat

----As early as the mid-1800's boat tours were popular through the islands. When a rail line connected Bayfield to the outer world in 1833, tourism flourished. However, logging and tourism were at odds and recreation declined as the islands were deforested. The Great Depression in the 1930's stretched family budgets and tourism further collapsed. Since the 40's, however, tourism has boomed, with many summer homes, summer visitors and an active excursion boat.

Camping

---- Folks have been camping on the islands since the first human arrivals. Today the National Park Service maintains the rustic campsites. Permits are required and are obtained from the Park Service offices. With 80% of the Lakeshore established as wilderness, primitive camping is assured into the future. Water taxis are available in Bayfield for transportation to island sites, for those without a boat.

Boating

----Deep channels between the islands, public docks on many islands, wilderness scenery, and broad bays for anchoring make the islands attractive to boaters. There are several caveats to be understood and respected by boaters. First, Lake Superior is very large and weather conditions can change dramatically, quickly and with little or no warning (either visual or on the radio). Huge waves can develop with sudden bursts of wind. Secondly, most of the islands are elliptical. Some have bays, but none provide 360 degree protection from waves. We anchored out in recommended anchorages in broad bays. Although the nights were windless, we rocked to wave sets coming in from vast distances and from differing directions through the broad open side of the bay. In heavy storms one can shelter on the lee side of an island, but with changing wind directions from the passing storm you might have to pull anchor to move to the new lee side of the island. Public dock space is available on a first come basis and sections are reserved for Park Service or commercial boats.

Little Sand Bay Ramp and Docks

----We did not beach our boat during our cruise, although many locals did. We were wary of rocks, changing winds, waves, and wakes. Instead of beaching, we would anchor just offshore, back up toward the beach (preferably downwind), hop over the side into shallow water, and wade ashore.

Recreational Fishing

----Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources has excellent material on line regarding fishing in the Apostle Islands. During our visit, most folks were fishing for Coho Salmon or Lake Trout. We had some marvelous dinners of local fish - the best being "Superior Trout" (and it was superior) fixed and served by new boating friends, Kent and Dorothy, we met on the Internet.

Our Apostle Island Guide and Chef Extraordinaire - Kent Richmond

SCUBA

----Some of the most interesting sites are the numerous wrecks along the shores and shoals. Seven of the accessible wrecks are from the 19th century. The excellent visibility of the lake is a pleasure. A dive permit is required from the Park Service.

Bugs

----No discussion of the north would be complete without a mention of bugs. We had mosquitos at night and flies (sometimes the biting variety) during the day. El became a pro with a fly swatter and they soon learned to keep clear of her vengeance. We carried headnets and sometimes in the evening found them useful. On board, we used our screens over the windows, hatches and door during the day but often closed them up during the cool of night since the little rascals seem to find ways through screens. A 'buzzer' around your ears, when trying to sleep, is no joy.

A DNA test on that blood might determine the victim!

A Little Extraneous History

----The last official visit by President Kennedy, before he went to Dallas in 1963, was to the Apostle Islands.

(07/10)

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